If you are interested in travelling to a totally unspoilt and rugged part of the planet, where very friendly local people carry on a simple traditional lifestyle in an unforgettably beautiful mountainous region, then read on.
My wife (Chee Wan) and I have just returned from 4 magical days in Tusheti. This was arranged by the unique, energetic and multi talented Devi. We met Devi (who was recommended by a mutual Georgian friend) in Tbilisi and had a chat about the things we were interested in experiencing. She planned the trip around our needs and it turned out to be a truly fantastic 4 days. This was not a trip for the faint hearted or for those who want all the creature comforts of first world living laid on for you at every location. However, we ate a never ending supply of simple meals consisting of local tasty healthy produce, walked in a landscape that was like a National Geographic documentary, met truly down to earth, happy local people who immediately put a kettle on to share their coffee, tea etc and we felt truly alive and privileged to be there.
The actual drive to get to the Tusheti Park included a long stretch of unforgettable 4WD roads. Forget about reading a book along the way. There was so much to see as we bounced around, dodging the inevitable pot hole and boulders on the road, but our driver Vakho was brilliant. Calm, confident in his driving ability and a vast knowledge of the actual route meant that we felt totally safe despite the adrenaline pumping through our bodies.
Devi is a real gem – she has lived in this region for around 6 years and this showed time and time again as we met people who greeted her with familiarity, genuine affection and enthusiasm. She had many interesting stories and anecdotes about past trips, local history, the way of life of the Tushetian people and other nearby culturally fascinating groups. She had several alternative suggestions for us when interfering weather conditions prevented one of our intended side trips. Her organisational skills were very professional and her multi lingual skills (she speaks 8 languages!) are obviously a huge advantage when dealing with a diverse range of clients. It was very reassuring throughout the trip that she had our safety and our interests as a priority. She is a perceptive, knowledgeable and exceedingly well-travelled person. We shared interesting conversations and laughed a lot together. She also makes a great coffee first thing in the morning, and to sit on a balcony overlooking remote alpine villages, with mega high mountains in the background and a mist in the valleys was a perfect way to begin yet another day of adventures.
We have been to Georgia many times, and visited most of the regions. Several friends have commented that as good as the country areas are, Tusheti is an absolute must to visit if you want to step back in time and appreciate the richness of life in this spectacular part of Georgia. We were fortunate enough to capture some really exceptional photos, meet some amazing people and have experiences that are truly unique and which we will share with special friends. The sheer splendour of the mountains is hard to put into words that do it justice - it is quite indescribable. Just go while it still remains in a glorious time warp. We really can learn a great deal from the way the Tushetian people live and from experiencing just a very small part of their culture. If you do choose to visit this area, summer is the only time it is accessible and we highly recommend that you try and get to do a trip with Devi. Personally, we will definitely be returning and exploring more of this region in future years, and hopefully will be doing so with Devi.
Greg Skehan / Chee Wan Yuen / Australia
Devi is a force all her own. We met at the Why Not Hostel in Tbilisi and just from a few minutes of conversation, one can already tell Devi can show you an entirely different world. Aside from how friendly and honest she is, her own life story is so intriguing and the fact that she's been in Georgia for over 6 years (completely fluent in Chechen and Georgian) are great indicators of how awesome of a guide she is! She showed me a video of a Muslim women's ceremony in Pankisi and I immediately knew I'd extend my time in Georgia to go with her that Friday and see it for myself. I had a couple of questions beforehand about the location and she answered everything quickly and efficiently. While in the Pankisi region, we stayed with a wonderful local family and felt warmly accepted. Devi is a celebrity and when walking around, people call out to her to say hi and catch up. I felt comfortable and safe with her everywhere we went. I wouldn't dare get near her with a huge stick in her hands! The ceremony Friday was even more moving and spiritual than I expected after seeing her video. I was even able to join this circle of women singing and moving around and felt a deep connection with them all. It is by far the most memorable experience I had in my three weeks in Georgia and I'm eternally grateful to Devi for showing me this unique part of the world. I cannot recommend her enough!
A mutual friend of friend of Devi and me highly recommended her trips through Georgia. Since I was going to be in Georgia for 2 weeks, of which one was occupied with a seminary near Tbilisi, I felt like getting a guide or at least participating in guided tours.
When I texted Devi on her Facebook she was immediatly interested in my wishes and ideas about the trip we would do together. Concerning money she was also really cooperative and tried to find a solution that would fit us both.
Devi suggested a trip to eastern Georgia, Kachetia. Since I had no idea what exactly I wanted to see, visit or experience I agreed.
What I saw in this week would be the most authentic and pleasant encounter with georgian culture and mentality I could have gotten.
We stayed at super friendly and hospital families who provided us with extremely tasty food and accomodation. Tables were bending under the weight of plenty dishes.
Devi also took me to places I would have overlooked when traveling alone. During the whole week I really felt like experiencing Georgia, rather than just visiting it.
To cut a long Story short: I highly recommend Devis' tours and I am thankful for an unbelievable week in the Caucasus.
Madlob!
I had never used a guide before, but am very happy that Devi was able to show us around Khevsureti. If you are interested in getting access to places and people in the most off-the-beaten-track parts of the Georgian mountains, then you’d be wasting an opportunity by not using her services. Devi knows anyone and everyone in the regions she specialises in, and as such is ideally placed to help you get the most out of your mountain experience. Whether you want to hang out with Chechen shepherds in the high passes or stay the night in remote villages, Devi can- and does- make it happen.
Speaking Georgian and Chechen, and with her great knowledge of Georgia, it’s like having a local with you to show you the sights. At the same time, being foreign, she can show you Georgia from a different perspective- and listens to what you want rather than just showing you what she thinks you want to see. As an added bonus, she’s great company to have around! She gets things done, listens to your requirements, tells you what is doable and what isn’t realistic, makes conversation and is just generally a pleasant and funny person to be around. It’s like travelling with a friend, but one who’s useful to be around.
As someone who prides themself on travelling independently in remote and less-visited regions, and who emphatically does not ‘do’ guided trips, I would me more than willing to hire Devi again to show me more hidden corners of her beautiful adopted home and to give real insights into them.
If you want an introduction to the people and places of the remotest parts of the Georgian mountains, look no further than Devi.
Devi she is a monster in her knowledge of Georgian mountains and people. It is hard to go to a place where nobody know her but, if such place exists, they surely heard of her. Devi expertise comes from the curiosity which pushed her all around the country and prompted her to learn different of the many languages spoken in Georgia. I’ve spent many days in Vashlovani National Park and there is nothing more reassuring than having her walking in front of you with her stick, when surrounded by flocks and Caucasian Shepherd dogs, which like to bite anything that move and can weight up to 100 kgs. As she saved me few times, I can definitely tell you that she can deal with them! And people love her, we have always been welcome by anyone, Kists, Tushs, Armenian and Azerbaijanis, I can even remember the Georgian border guards filling our backpacks with food! If you prefer authentic experiences to boutique hotels then with Devi you will find a lot of what you are looking for!
Devi definitely is THE mountainguide to go to when travelling Georgia. Not only is she incredibly competent and knows everything about the area, she also has a very unique and charming way of communicating with people and has completely been accepted by the locals as one of them. This means that she can offer you truly authentic experiences of living amongst the local people.
I just returned from a couple of weeks in Georgia, including a 4 day visit to Pankisi Gorge. The area was beautiful and interesting and I wish I had set aside more time to explore further.
I definitely recommend Devi, she very connected with the community and speaks several local languages which has allowed her to develop relationships with many of the people in the area. She arranged homestays with locals during my visit and we visited a few of her friends in the area. She set up a few cooking lessons of local dishes and if we weren't rained out were planning on collecting chestnuts and camping out in the forest.
I also had some lessons to learn the songs performed in the Zikr from one of the women in the participates in the ceremony, and on Friday I went to see the Zikr ceremony at the mosque in Duisi. It was a very moving experience and one of the highlights of my trip.
Overall it was a unique and amazing experience I will not soon forget, and Devi was instrumental in facilitating access to the Chechen community.
I spent the better part of a year traipsing around Georgia, and I was always finding ruined churches and castles hidden in the woods or atop lonely plateaus. I was also always finding friends of Devi. It didn’t matter what desolate lonely corner of the mountains I went to. Some old lady with a bucket of fresh milk or grizzled shepherd with a crazy dog would know who she was and smile when I mentioned I knew her. Usually dropping her name was good for a glass of wine or two. It was towards the end of the year when I finally got to go hiking with her, in Lagodekhi, but even there, almost in Azerbaijan, the B&B owner and the soldiers guarding the border both greeted her like old friends. It’s one thing to be a guide when you’re from a place–it’s sort of a default–but Devi chose Georgia, chose these people, these mountains, and a much leaner existence than she might have had in Germany and I feel like the people there like her for having chosen them. She knows the trails better than most of them too and they admire her for that. Also even though she’s become a part of the place, she still knows what it’s like to admire the mountains and the churches and castles with an outsiders eyes. Sometimes when you go hiking with a Georgian, you feel like they’re just showing you something because you’re a foreigner and they figure you like that sort of thing. Devi honestly loves her mountains, and you feel like she’s as into them as you are. It’s a great ride going with Devi.